I confess that gewürztraminer is not a go-to white wine for me. It’s not because of its reputation for being sweet; there are plenty of dry gewürztraminers out there that are fresh and non-cloying, but still pack the grape’s trademark, tropical fruit punch. Nor is it because gewürztraminer is hard to pronounce (just belt out, “geh-VERZ-trah-meener”) or impossible to interpret, even when the label is in German.

The real reason I don’t drink gewürz more often is because it’s just too much. As in, too much of a good thing. A beautiful, but decadent perfume of honeysuckle, rose, pineapple, and Asian spices; a full-bodied blast of fruit compote, starring lychee, on the tongue; a lingering finish with exotic flavors — who can take all that in a glass of wine?

I’ll tell you when I can: Easter.

That’s because I think a good dry gewürztraminer is the perfect accompaniment to baked ham, the Easter staple in my house, especially if the ham has a honey glaze. I especially like the gewürztraminer coming out of Mendocino county in California (try Navarro’s 2007 Anderson Valley for $19) or Alto Adige in the northeast corner of Italy (Cantina Cortaccia’s estate bottling is great and can be had for less than $20).

And if you really want that gewürz to perform — it may be its only chance this year — serve your ham with this delicious spiced pear relish I make every Easter. Have a happy one!