I’m still scratching my head over the 2005 Orin Swift “Papillon” we ordered at Elway’s Steak House in Denver — and almost rejected because the bottle is so repulsive! It would have been the first time I’d sent a wine back because the label made my stomach turn.

Good thing we tamped down our revulsion, because out of this beastly bottle out came a beautiful purple liquid, glittering with ruby highlights. A decent nose with fruit and cedar was followed by an absolutely delicious drink, bursting with blueberry, licorice, and blackberry flavors, with nice vanilla and some sweet oak in the background. The Papillon is definitely a big, ripe, Napa cabernet blend, but it’s not over the top. I was struck, actually, at how sleek and balanced it tasted, considering all that fruit and glycerin. It was silky, vivid, and even a tad juicy in the mouth, not jammy. We went home and promptly ordered a case.

But why the filthy fingers with dirt-encrusted nails and prison tattoos? Clearly the winemaker at Orin Swift, a young guy named Dave Phinney, has some interest in the theme of incarceration, since his Zinfandel blend is called “The Prisoner.” The Internet is divided on whether “Papillon” is a reference to the Steve McQueen movie; but everyone agrees that the Greg Norman photo would be more appealing on a gallery wall. All I can say is that Phinney must have a lot of confidence in this wine (which retails at about $55) to top it off with this image — and he’s 100 percent justified.