Riesling, the rich white native to Germany, is one of the most underappreciated wines of all time. There are two reasons for this: the common (and mistaken) impression that all riesling is sweet, and the indecipherable labeling on most Old World examples. Lucky for white wine lovers, a superhero has stepped forward to save this wine from total obscurity. Its name is Australia and its secret power lies in dry, simply-labeled rieslings that also happen to be appealingly priced (though that was never a problem with this underdog varietal).

For two Aussie rieslings, one to quaff and one to avoid, click here:

D’Arenberg “The Stump Jump” McLaren Vale 2006 ($11): This fruity, kitchen-sink concoction (mostly riesling, with sauvignon blanc, marsanne, viognier, and chardonnay) is a widely available, all-time favorite value. It’s got all the apple, peach, and lime flavors you’d expect from a good riesling, all propped on a decent structure provided by the sauvignon blanc. Rich, but completely dry. I love the Stump Jump with take-out sesame chicken, pad thai, or any grilled fish or pork. And how many wines have you tasted named after a plough?

Pikes “The Merle” Riesling Reserve, Clare Valley ($29): We were talked into this wine by the sommelier at Waterbar, a splashy new seafood restaurant in downtown San Francisco. She explained she’d already priced the Merle on her list thinking she was getting a case, but when the distributor delivered she realized she’d ordered a mere six pack. Her goof may have been our gain financially, but gastronomically we felt like we were stuck with a close out. What really threw us was an odd, smoky taste, a flavor we’d associate more with a red wine aged in oak. Lots of pro tasters have been making a big deal out of the “minerality” of the new Aussie rieslings, and sure enough there were plenty of earth and stone notes in this wine, but it was as if they had been exaggerated to comic levels. Clipped finish, not fruity, and just plain weird.