In a landscape of rolling, oak-dotted hills and vineyards producing loads of forgettable wine, one Sierra Foothills winery is determined to make its mark. It’s called Cedarville Vineyard and it’s run by “tech refugees” and UC Davis oenology graduates Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks. (That’s me with Jonathan at their tasting room.) Cedarville’s acreage is well-positioned on a hillside at a slightly higher altitude than most of the area’s wineries, so the grapes are protected from late frosts and kept cool at at night. Just as importantly, the husband-wife team is keeping quality high by keeping quantity under control: low yields in the vineyard, hands-on attention in the winery, and a very small production. (They do less than 2,000 cases a year and have no plans to grow beyond that.)

For our special favorites from Cedarville’s current line up, click here:

2006 Viognier ($20): Full of apricot and melon flavors and flashing a pretty, flowery aroma, this viognier has good fruit but also a fresh mouthfeel. I was really impressed with its structure; so much viognier from California turns out flabby, but Cedarville’s is sinuous and silky. Jonathan Lachs says he’s aiming at Condrieu, the gorgeous French white made from viognier, and it shows.

2005 Syrah ($25): This syrah is programmed for pleasure. It’s loaded with sweet black fruit flavors and tinged by chocolate and black pepper notes. It just tastes so well done, like all its parts are put together in perfect harmony, but with an emphasis on enjoyment. Soft mouthfeel, viscous texture, everlasting finish. We regret giving one of our purchases to our neighbors who babysat our dog.

If you visit Cedarville, be sure to make an appointment. The owners, practically bursting with pride, will take you on a loving tour of their four-room winery, every ingenious detail of which they planned out themselves. I’ve never seen cement culverts put to such noble use.