Dear Wine Girl:
I’m going to Bandol, France in July and looking for tips on visiting the friendlier wineries. Also, do all of them offer tastings and is it a walk-up-and-pay setup?
Thank you,
Bound for Bandol
Dear Bound:
Wine tasting in the south of France is one of my favorite life memories. In 2002, we spent three days tasting our way through the great red wines of Bandol, located just about an hour’s drive east of Marseille. Bandol is one of my favorite wines: unique, since it is made from 100 percent mourvedre (without the Provence staples of syrah or grenache); burly, because it is filled with the flavors of blackberry, brambles, earth, and to me, a tell-tale note of diesel; and long-lived, since mourvedre has a special ability to stave off oxidation. Except for the exchange rate on the euro, I’m so jealous of your trip.
Quick answer: there aren’t a lot of friendly, much less friendlier, wineries in Bandol — actually, in all of France. But don’t kill the messenger. Click here for the spots that will bountifully reward your perseverance:
The key to wine touring in Bandol — and this is true for most anywhere in France — is that appointments are almost always necessary. So brush up on your French, because it’s also a truism that most of the people who work in wineries there don’t speak English. (These days you can email a request for a tasting to some wineries, which is great, because you can avoid having to vous-votre on the phone.) There is usually no charge for an appointment, though, and typically it includes a tour.
Most importantly, give yourself an extra half hour to get to your appointments and do not leave your hotel without a GPS-equipped rental car and a good, detailed map. This is because is because the further you get into the French countryside, the more the locals practice what my expatriate sister-in-law calls “conservation of signs,” so you will get lost. And the staff, who are often the same people who own the winery and make the wine, get very angry if you are late. You do not want to get yelled at by a red-faced vigneron who should at that moment be eyeing his fermentation, so mark my words.
Most Notable
Domaine Tempier: The most noted of all Bandol, run by the well-respected culinary and viticulturist family the Peyrauds. Stand in the pergola-shaded patio and imagine the wine celebrities, from Richard Apple to Robert Parker, who’ve dined there. Drink the dry rosé that single-handedly sparked a revolution that changed American minds about pink wine.
Most Impressive
Château de Pibarnon: Set into the crest of a huge natural amphitheater, whose spectators are vines seated in rows and gazing out over the valley (plus a peek-a-boo glimpse of the Mediterranean to your left), this winery looks as awesome as its Bandol tastes. I especially enjoyed the spittoons, which are used barrels filled with sawdust.
Most Visitor Friendly
Domaine Bunan: One of the largest wineries in Bandol, Bunan has an easy-to-find, welcoming tasting room that does not require an appointment. Bunan is a name you’ll likely see again on wine lists when you return to the states, and their more luxe label, Château Rouvière, is often delicious.
Most Up-and-Coming
Domaine Gros’ ‘Nore: My new favorite Bandol comes from this oddly-named producer. Earthy, powerful, and well-priced. I see that you can make an appointment at their website, which makes things easier.
Bon appétit!
