I love it when a winery has a great produce and a great story. Larkmead is a perfect example. Founded in the nineteenth century by the parents of Lilly Coit, the socialite, transvestite, and benefactress behind the famous, undeniably phallic monument to her beloved San Francisco firemen, Larkmead’s 1,000 acres of prime vineyards are perfectly situated between St. Helena and Calistoga in Napa Valley, perfectly suited to sun-loving, heat-seeking cabernet. Coit’s family was sophisticated, international, and Francophile, so from the beginning of Napa’s history as a wine country, when most other big wineries were planting obscure Italian varieties, Larkmead was dedicated to cab.
Due to the vicissitudes of Napa Valley ownership, the historic Larkmead buildings are now inhabited by another winery, also a favorite of ours, Frank Family. But right across from its old digs, the venerable brand has a new tasteful home, now occupied by the Baker family (whose kids happen to be old school chums of yours truly), assisted by the ebullient Matt Simpson (direct sales manager) and displaced Scotsman Colin MacPhail (winery manager, pictured above), whose multi-sequitur storytelling talent can be set off by the drop of a hat, a name, or pretty much anything else. There’s a tradition of garrulousness at Larkmead. Known for her salons, which she held while she was supposedly grounded at the winery (her parents did not approve of her firefighter fetish, which led her to actually participate in the rescue efforts after San Francisco’s 1906 earthquake), fiery Lilly Coit would be proud.
The winery just added a delicious sauvignon blanc to its lineup, but Larkmead’s fame will always be tied up with cabernet. We tasted through most of its current releases, with the exception of the Firebelle (Coit’s nickname) and the Solari (Kate Baker’s middle name), the estate’s most expensive cab-based red, which it reserves for its club members. All in all, these are not value wines, but with cabernets from Napa of similar quality commanding twice or three times the price of Larkmead’s, we are of the consensus that every dollar spent on Larkmead’s wine is a dollar well spent. Here’s what we thought about its latest lineup.
2005 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Napa) $26
Their first white. Great fruit profile: lots of grapefruit, lime, and a delicious, bright mouthfeel. A touch of fresh-cut grass. B
2003 Larkmead Vineyards “60/40” (Napa) $32
Flirty aromatics and a beautiful ruby color is followed by giant cherry flavors, including some sour cherry, a little pepper, and cinnamon. Matt swears he’s reminded of Red Hots candy, and it’s true, it did bring us back to the movie houses of our youth. B
2003 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet (Napa) $50
A darker color leads to a medium-bodied, “almost viscous” (according to my brother in law) mouthfeel, loaded with berry fruit flavors, plum and currant, too. Dusty, earthy, even mossy notes. The nose is a little reserved. B+
2003 Larkmead Vineyards Salon (Napa) $60
Named after Lilly’s legendary parties. Dark, almost black color, with gorgeous dark garnet edges. All five Bordeaux varieties went into this delicious blend, which leans more toward a cleaner, fruitier profile (berries, currants), but with some complexity, including chocolate notes. After some time in the glass, Matt says it takes on a hint of molasses. B
2004 Larkmead Vineyards Salon (Napa) $60
Matt let us have a taste of this vintage, which won’t be released until spring. Very different from the ‘03. Less pepper, softer, more integrated.
