Two days after I opened it — and stored it with a vacuum seal in my fridge — this wine changed totally, and for the better. What came off initially as an overly-alcoholic, clumsy, fruit bomb developed into a gentle giant, capable of both power and subtlety. A lovely translucent, garnet color with a touch of black (wine blogger Jerry Hall says the 2004 edition “looks unfiltered,” and so does this one) is followed by a deluxe, earthy, meaty nose with lots of black cherry and crushed violet flowers. On the palate, this wine has plenty of cherry and berry flavors, softness, spiciness, and a touch of pleasing fresh, wet, dirt note that makes you hunger for the bacon-wrapped filet that Mr. Hall recommends with it. Medium bodied, with a decent finish. But the best part of this wine is the way it evolved. I would have guessed it was French, for that alone. Here’s a hint: it’s not, but some of the grapes came from a new hillside appellation in California that many think is the new Côte d’Or.

Email me with your guess, or click here for the answer:

This wine’s capacity to evolve says it’s probably a young wine made from one of the so-called “noble grapes,” that is, cabernet, pinot noir, chardonnay, and others used to make some of the world’s most famous and long-lived wines. But let’s rule out cabernet because this wine is not a big brawny red; it’s softer and more feminine (and because of the reference to the Côte d’Or in France, where cabernet does not thrive). It’s also got a really complex aroma, which should point us in the direction of pinot noir. But what kind? We know it’s not from Burgundy, so let’s choose a hot new locale from California as its origin. Russian River Valley? No, because we know it comes from a hilly area. Sonoma Coast? Maybe. Central Coast? Could be, especially if we’re talking Santa Rita Hills, which just got certified as its own AVA (American Viticultural Area). And we’d be right: it was a Hitching Post “Cork Dancer 5.1″ Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara, and most of its fruit came from some very notable vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, like Fiddlestix and Rio Vista. $29, but I got mine on sale for $27.