winequizAromas of fresh-baked bread, wet stones, and citrus fruit jump from this wine. It’s got a pure, vivid color between straw and gold, with a slight touch of sunset red. Lots of medium-sized bubbles swirl toward the surface. The wine washes over the palate with loads of lemon, blood orange, and golden-delicious apple flavors, leaving a distinct, bracing, steely taste. Notes of yeast; completely dry, and nervy, considering how rich it is. A long, clean finish says this wine would be a versatile partner with all sorts of food, from canapés to game hen to crème brûlée. A thirty-something-dollar price tag says you can serve it at a dinner party without taking out a second mortgage.

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Clearly we’re dealing with a sparkling wine here, since the bubbles make their appearance by the third sentence. But what sort? A real Champagne from France, or a quality bubby from California, Spain, Italy — or just about anywhere else? And what’s with that slightly red tint? Could this be a rosé?

First, let’s vote in favor of a French Champagne, mainly because of its stony, steely, and nervy qualities. New World sparklers, especially, are more known for their fruit; but devotees of Champagne say they come back again and again — and spend all that money — because of how the specific sites in Champagne speak through the wine, usually in tones of minerals and a tightness of structure. And let’s bet that although it shows some rosy hues, because this Champagne’s standout color is gold and straw, it is not a rosé. Perhaps, though, some red grapes contribute to its profile. (Champagne is made from one or a blend of only three varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier, the last two of which are red.) And we’re going to guess that since this wine didn’t break our bank, it’s a nonvintage Champagne, which means it’s made from the produce of two or more years’ harvests, and can sport therefore a more reasonable price tag.

And we’d be right. The wine is a J. Lasalle “Imperial Préférence” Brut Champagne from Chigny les Roses, France. Unusually it’s pressed from 100% pinot meunier, the grape that’s typically a supporting character in Champagne. I scored it on sale for $29.25, but it’s usually in the high thirties. If you guessed right, great detective work!