Although Wine Girl knows better, whenever she sees bubbles she says, “Champagne, please.” I use the C-word even though I’m aware that only a fraction of the fizzy wines we drink is really Champagne, that is, produced in the region of France called Champagne; blended from chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier; and protected by some big trade agreement. Who cares? If it tickles my nose and is ubiquitous from about November to mid-January, we’ll call it by that lovely, festive name. Let the gendarmes come get me.

Still, Wine Girl recommends you know something about the types of sparkling wine made beyond the storied vineyards of Champagne, especially now that the un-Champagne market is bubbling over with great taste and value. So when you stop by a wine shop on your way to a holiday party, here are three key words to delicious, affordable sparklers:

Cava: Traditional cava makers in the northeast corner of Spain take obscure, native white grapes (macabeo and xarel-lo, in case you’re curious) and apply French techniques to make bubbly. Crisp, refreshing, and with a tell-tale chalky note, a good bottle of cava can cost only $7 (try “Cristalino” from Jaume Serra).

Prosecco: Many of us used to have bad associations with Italian sparkling wine, thanks to that nasty Asti Spumanti, the source of so many headaches back in the day. But today’s prosecco, named after the grape it’s made from, is rich but not sweet. Just look for “dry” or “brut” on the label.

Cremant: Not all French bubblies are Champenoise. In regions like the Loire, Alsace, and Burgundy, winemakers take their local varieties (pinot blanc, chenin blanc, sometimes chardonnay) and create sparklers in the style of Champagne, at a fraction of the price.

Even more good news about these sparklers is that they’re usually non-vintage, that is, blended from the grapes of several different harvests. That way you can just grab what’s on the shelf, without getting uptight about whather or not you’ve bought the “right” year. Just pop that cork, start your party — and in the style of Eddy and Patsy on Absolutely Fabulous, call it champers, dahling.

Not Made in Champagne

Marquez de Monistrol Cava Riserva Selección Especial Brut (Spain) $12
Deep gold with a tint of green, this is one big cava for the buck. Super frizzy, with a good nose of honeydew and vanilla, then melons and fresh baked bread on the midpalate. B

Louis Bouillot Cremant “Perle de Vigne” (Burgundy, France) $14
Light, almost platinum color, with aromas of orange blossoms and crushed granite. Fuji apples, honeysuckle, and minerally flavors feel light and pleasant on the palate. B-
click here for the winery

Bortolotti Prosecco Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene, Italy) $12
Classic prosecco goldish color, with a huge nose of flowers, mango, papaya, and some buttered toast. Fruit-forward palate, with loads of complexity. Long finish. B-
click here for the winery

Col Vetoraz Prosecco Brut (Valdobbiadene, Italy) $14
Pale-colored and crisp for an Italian sparkler, but with definite hazelnut, rose petals, and minerals on the nose, then apples and lemon on the palate. Clean mouthfeel. C+
click here for more information about the winery