Few expected that one of Europe’s most Catholic countries, Spain, would enact the world’s most liberal gay marriage legislation in July. And fewer, perhaps, expected Spain to be the source of some of this century’s most exciting wines.
But my tasting group, The Ladies Tasting Society, has been following both Spanish politics and enology for years, and were not caught unawares. We cherish that distinctly Iberian mix of respect for tradition and passionate experimentation. So when two of our ladies booked a summer vacation in the land of Queens Isabella and Amadóvar, we decided to celebrate by tasting some good Spanish reds, none priced more than $50. We were thrilled by the results. We hadn’t sampled reds with this kind of stuffing, structure, and aging potential since we took the much-heralded Bordeaux 2000 vintage for a test run. And at a price—an average of $33 per bottle—easily four times less than comparable Bordeaux. Olé!
The key to understanding Spanish reds is to learn the country’s most well-established regions and then familiarize yourself with their grapes’ distinct characteristics.
Rioja (ree-OH-hah), for example, nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, makes classy, balanced red wines from the tempranillo grape, which many compare to cabernet sauvingnon.
Just southwest of Rioja lies the warmer region of Ribera del Duero (ree-BAY-rah del DWAY-roh) whose reds are made from a tempranillo clone but boast a riper, more concentrated flavors than Rioja. Even hotter is Priorat (PREE-oh-raht), near Barcelona, where eclectic winemakers are adopting the grape types (syrah, granache) of their neighbors in the south of France and mixing them with international varieties like cabernet and merlot.
From there, you can bust out into other regions, assured that the brave new winemakers of Spain are starting to make world-class wine at still-affordable prices. (Little hint: check the back label for the importer Eric Soloman; if he’s behind it, you can’t lose.)As for our blind tasting, the ladies are happy to report that each of us guessed correctly the origin and grape type of all five of the wines we tasted blind. But it’s probably because these Spanish wines expressed their native soil and climate so eloquently, we couldn’t go wrong. Neither will you.
Tasting Report: Spanish Reds
BEST OF TASTING
Bodegas Muga, Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja) 1995 $42: Unfair competition! This mature, expensive Rioja from a great producer was so soft, elegant, and graced with such complex aromas and flavors (current, raspberry, tobacco), one lady exclaimed, “I want to take this wine downstairs and be alone with it.” A-
BEST VALUE
El Vínculo (La Mancha) 2000 $22: This palate-pleaser with a not-yet-prestigious address (La Mancha is the cast, high-plain region south of Madrid) charmed us with its flowery nose and rich, fruit-forward, more approachable mouthfeel. B
Hacienda Monasteria (Ribera Del Duero) 2001 $35: Best-smelling of the bunch. Toast, oak, and vanilla aromas emerge from this deep purple wine, packed with blackberry and current flavors, even a touch of blueberry. Tannins for miles – best to hold for a few years. B+
Vall Llach Idus (Priorat) 2002 $42: Inky monster! This tannic, young red gave itself away as a Priorat by the slight, licorice-like sweetness of the granache grape it’s made from. Black fruits, almost pruney, with some lead pencil on the nose. Closed up, best to drink after 2010. B+
Balbas Crianza (Ribera del Duero) 2001 $24: Kissing-cousin to the Monasteria, with vanilla and cedar aromas and tons of tannins battling it out with gorgeous black fruit and blueberry tastes. Some pepper. Young. B
